Interest Piece: The Basics of Crochet

While my blog usually combines personal anecdotes with writing tips, I do like to mix things up and enhance my abilities with the occasional writing challenge. I am not exactly a master crocheter, at least not in terms of fame, pure dedication, YouTube, etc. but I am adept enough to follow any skill level of pattern and even make my own. I'd love to do a video tutorial on how to do a dragon neck warmer pattern someday, but I won't jump too far ahead right now.

First off, I'm going to assume you know nothing about crochet to start. As far as supplies goes, it's more complex than you might think. Yarn comes in many different blends, types, lengths, weights and varieties. Blends can include acrylic, animal hair/fur, bamboo, silk, cotton, even paper. Aside from your yarn selection, you can also choose to use finer threads for more delicate work. Thin threads are much more durable that thin yarns. As far as lengths go, you can buy them in tiny bonbons or giant cakes and you'll run into different winding methods as well like hanks, balls, skeins, cones, etc. These all give you an indication of how you will need to work with them to unwind them. Skeins are the most popular since most let you neatly pull the center thread, keeping it compact while you work with it. A yarn's weight is actually another name for its thickness. A 1 is the thinnest, while 7 or even 8 is nearly a rope. The standard weight in most projects usually falls between 3-4, with 5-6 being bulky or super bulky. I won't bother with the exact names here because this isn't universal (much like the US is the only country that even calls it yarn, since most countries favor calling all yarn 'wool' whether it has any wool in the blend or not). With regard to variety, you'll run into some funky types like boucle, balloon, tufted, eyelash and so on. These are designer types and generally pretty difficult for beginners to work with.

A little history before I lead into the next basic and that is that 'crochet' is a French term meaning 'to hook'. The 'hooks' were originally very organic-- the first crocheters used bent fingers to make the knots that make up the craft. Nowadays, we have quite the selection, ranging from wood, plastic, bamboo, polymer clay, aluminum and steel. As with many aspects of crochet, there are differences between US/UK standards in size. UK uses the diameter in millimeters where the US system often uses a letter and/or number rating (I think it runs from A to S. There might be a bigger gauge than S but I personally haven't worked with anything bigger than P). My personal collection uses both systems since I've bought them from many countries. It's important to note that delicate projects often use a different hook type, typically known as thread or steel hooks. These are thinner and have a different numbering system. If you don't have your hooks sorted, you may grab a crochet hook that says 3.0, which is bigger than the 3.0 of your steel hook set.

I'll go ahead and insert an optional section here concerning gauge. If you're a beginner, this might sound like gibberish, but the takeaway here is that you might not need it at all. Gauge is something you typically only need when making clothing. Most patterns meant to be made to a certain size will include a gauge chart which will let you know how many stitches should cover a certain length (usually per 3-4 inches). This will mean starting a swatch to make sure your yarn and tension (the term used for how tight or loose your stitches are) will fit the gauge or if you'll have to use less or more stitches to get the size you want. Once more, this is something more intermediate or advanced. To avoid running into sizing issues, stick to the recommended yarns. Most patterns have them. If you're going to stick to potholders or dolls or doilies, it's not something you often need. It's worth noting that a lot of novices make the mistake of ignoring it when making cardigans or shirts and end up with something way too big or small. You can get away without gauging hats in most cases, but keep this in mind if you're feeling brave enough to get out of basics.

The basics of usage are not something you'll want to try to figure out through words or even pictures. Scour through some videos on holds (what is the most comfortable way for you to hold the hook) and tension (how you thread the yarn through your fingers while working). This is a personal choice part of the craft and one thing a good teacher will explain before teaching a single stitch. From there, you will want to learn the slipknot. Again, no one way to do this. I personally like doing the pretzel method. You will do it at the start of every project without fail. Your next move will be chains and single crochets. For years, I never did more than single crochet and there are many projects that can be made from that alone.

I have to add here that I am once again using US terms. UK calls chains the single crochet and the single is a double for them. The rationale with the US system is that the chain is not a complete stitch where the single is the simplest secured stitch. The UK system's rationale is how many times you hook the yarn onto the hook (chains use one, the next uses two, etc.). I wouldn't worry too much about the why each time, just pay note of whether you're using a US/UK pattern. I learned US first so I think down single is a chain, double is single, triple is double. I've never done more than a triple treble which basically just looks like a chain. The basic stitches are single, double, half-double, treble, double treble, triple treble. Once you start looking for more difficult techniques, you'll run into types like crocodile, moss, butterfly, spike, puff, etc. that often resemble what they sound like. Many of them skip traditional looping steps you learn in basics or are simply a combination of basic steps (a standard crocodile is just a chain, three doubles, a chain, three doubles and a chain-- the effect resembles a reptile's scale. Be warned that you have to set up a lattice row of V-stitches to arrange them on. Please note this was the first stitch I learned outside of basics so it's not quite as confusing as it sounds-- it's just some new terms you pick up).

Beyond this point, you're branching out of basics. I was very experimental rather than procedural when it came to learning stitches, not minding the skill level. I ran into a lot of terms that meant nothing to me, but if you're learning via the internet, you can search terms very easily. Just by way of example, I've learned terms like third-loop crochet. Once you know the anatomy of your stitches, you'll get curious about what happens when you work around or behind a stitch and yes, they give vastly different visual results. The third-loop actually gives a very knit-like stitch that I love using on hats. Back and front post stitches are entirely used on the waffle stitch, a great stitch for thick warm hats and blankets. Cable stitching was once a knit-only technique but you can emulate the look by alternating long cross/X stitches in each rows. I've done basketweave and chevron stitches that use the same concept. The point here is to rouse some curiosity in your creative possibilities-- there are tons of stitches in crochet design! If you want to see some truly amazing freeform work, Russian crocheters are amazing at this.

As for patterns, you'll want to learn the acronyms/abbreviations and possibly charting. Russian patterns are notorious for using visual symbols rather than word directions. I find this more generous since it creates a universal language for sharing, but they are difficult to use for many crocheters since you have to think right to left then left to right for flipping rows. Make charting your intermediate curiosity since most patterns are written out. If ch, sc, hdc, dc, tc, dtc, ttc aren't second nature, that's okay. Almost every pattern regardless of skill level will have a key that explains ch = chain and so on. The key may be introducing new stitches and may or may not be included in the instructions. The hardest patterns will expect you to already know how to do most stitches and will only include stitch instructions if they aren't commonly used or if they themselves have invented the technique. If a pattern is lacking a skill level ranking or some details, you can often find comments where you downloaded it that will clarify or the pattern maker will have contact information otherwise. Be polite but don't worry about 'bothering' them. If they overlooked something, you are doing them a favor by spotting something they can update their pattern with that will help someone else. It will help them make more thorough patterns and better quality means better paid patterns.

As with all creative efforts, enjoy free patterns, but don't expect them. The most unique projects will often require you to pay and please, please, do not download pirated patterns to save a buck. Crochet designers will not stick to making innovative patterns if they can't afford to spend the time doing it. Not all of them are well-cared-for hoursewives or sitting on a cushy retirement incomes. Many are single women and men with other jobs because it's hard for a lucrative career to be had in creative jobs. People will haggle, undervalue you, expect you to treat it like a hobby or a passion and tell you that expecting to be paid is greedy or deceptive. I can't stress enough that people who do it as a 'hobby' are also often wealthy through marriage or lack of financial responsibilities and can afford to not take it seriously (just like the people you can't stand at your job who coast by doing little to nothing, they just don't value it the same way. Not less or more, exactly, but it's different). People who do things as a hobby also tend to feel they are novices. Here's another big one- they also tend to be doing it solely for themselves. They are making what they want, when they want, with little concern for the audience. 

Custom orders can be fun but they come with the added challenge of unknown supply costs and availability and unpredictable labor times. It also means they aren't making new innovative ideas and might be bored with making it for the 50th time. Yes, when making gifts, you often consider who you are making it for. But just like you selectively decide who takes priority on holidays, a friend of a friend is hardly someone who gets free or even discounted handmade gifts, let alone everyone else who wants to complain that you sold a $30 for $10 to a family member. Trying to haggle with a crafter's price is often how you'll end up being politely told to find someone else. A crafter is not a wholesaler. We have to evaluate what cost will make it worth the time and effort. It's not a matter of missing out on money. A skilled crafter has way more to consider than a lost sale. How many people would show up at their job if they were told you need to work for the next three weeks nonstop but they could only pay you the $50 it cost you in gas to get there? Yet that's exactly what some people's logic is towards artists. Yes, supplies ARE expensive (like gas) but if you're going to monopolize someone's time, there's no mutual satisfaction unless they are paid adequately for their time. When you contract someone for a freelance job, expect to pay at least minimum wage. Freelancers often have to charge you a 30% mark-up for taxes (because that is what the government forces freelancers to pay if you make more than $3000 in a year), supply costs, and if freelancing is their only job, they have to somehow manage upkeep expenses, insurance, as well. Wonder why freelancers are so 'greedy'? Well, because they have to make a living wage. You want convenience and quality, you get what you pay for. Go after corporate greed all you want, but don't take high prices out on freelancers.

In any case, there are your basics. Supplies/tools, things to learn, considerations for what you will do with the skill. I absolutely loathed turning crochet into a business and it didn't last. It's not something I ever want to do again. I can take the abuse when it comes to drawing and writing because it is what it is and I don't mind being accused of being selfish. I am and I'm not-- I might write what I want to read, but I also consider making it interesting for more than myself. Crochet is something I somehow take more personally so I don't take criticism on its worth as easily. I know what time I put into it and if I let any of it go, I don't bargain with it. I want to be sure that whoever I give it to will treat it well and treasure it. You can't mass produce crochet as you can with knitting. Every stitch has to be done by hand. I spent countless years learning it and it's the closest thing to mastering anything as I have come. Most of my creative pursuits make you aware that mastery isn't really possible. You can be really good at something, successful and considered an expert and still have things to learn. With crochet, there is absolutely nothing I have not been able to learn almost instantly. I have absolute confidence in it. All the more reason I don't tolerate underselling it. I will adjust any other skill I have to market it better because it's subjective. Crochet is a one-off piece and you like it or you don't, so you'll pay what it's worth or not at all. 

I could keep rambling. That's only the tip of the iceberg but my only general rant. I'd like to continue writing about the more technical aspects of crochet, but I may use a separate forum than my writing blog for that. There are many apps and sites that look for experts in special areas that might serve better. Blogs are hard to develop traffic for too. Much better to go to a site like Quora or Medium.

If you're here for the writer's blog, keep writing! For the crochet part, I'll update on this later.